The Frugal Oenologist

*Bridgman Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

2012-01-31T06:43:00.000-08:00

Both of us very much liked this Washington State red . It's medium bodied, fruit forward (mostly blackberry and plum) but with enough oak blended in to make it both interesting and restrained. A nice, even finish. Extremely attractively priced at $7.99.

*Apex Sauvignon Blanc 2009

2012-01-29T15:32:00.000-08:00

This Wasington State white is a very pleasing mix of tropical fruit, reminiscent of a New Zealand, without the pronounced grassy element. A very sophisticated wine which is fun to drink by itself and also went extremely well with our Paprika Reisfleisch ( leftover sirloin steak sauteed with rice and paprika). A real bargain at $ 6.99. Get it!

*Lechthaler Teroldego Rotaliano 2009

2012-01-28T16:01:00.000-08:00

Most South Tyrolean reds are light in body and color and, to use the local term,"suffig", i.e. you can drink a lot of them. Not so this one, which comes from a growing area atypical for the region, at low altitude and completely flat. It's medium bodied with a strong element of red cherry and a spicy finish. $7.99.

*Castelvero Cortese 2009

2012-01-28T15:55:00.000-08:00

This Italian white from Piedmont is very fresh and light bodied, with mild citrus elements. There's nothing complex about it, a good aperitif or summer wine. Near the end of its useful life, so drink it now. A good buy at $5.99.

*Domaine le Soustet Cotes du Rhone 2006

2012-01-27T17:33:00.003-08:00

T'is the season for online only specials and they will be so designated by the usual *. I had my doubts about this red because of its age and because the cork broke upon extraction, which, (while I'm no professional sommelier, I'm still reasonably experienced), is generally a very bad sign. However, not to worry, the wine, a half-and-half syrah/grenache blend, was excellent. It's a beautifully smooth mixture of cherry and plum, with a finish of very soft tannins and just the slightest acidity. A real find at $7.99. But drink it now.

Villa Silvia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2008

2012-01-27T06:20:00.000-08:00

Given at least two hours to breathe, this Italian red from Abruzzo is a nicely rounded wine with with wild cherry predominating along with soft tannins.8.99.

Rio Perdido Malbec 2010

2012-01-17T06:16:00.000-08:00

A Mendoza red from Argentina, this is not exactly your archtypical product. It exhibits more of a Cabernet Sauvignon red berry fruitiness and, to my taste at least, lacks the Malbec sinature chocolate element. Not at all bad, just not what you'd expect. $9.99.

Charte d;Assemblage Rouge 2010

2012-01-15T07:21:00.000-08:00

Like its white counterpart this Languedoc red is a decent table wine. It's still very young, reminiscent of a Beaujolais Nouveau, with a few rough edges at the finish. It may well improve with age. $7.99.

Pasquier Sauvignon 2010

2012-01-13T07:37:00.000-08:00

A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Vermentino, this white from the Pays d'Oc in south west France has a more rounded, fruity and aromatic character than a straight Sauvignon Blanc without copletely losing the flinty crispness associated with that grape. A nice country wine, eminently drinkable but, as so often, overpriced at $9.99. Available for two dollars less most places.

Basa Blanco 2009

2012-01-10T15:39:00.000-08:00

This white Rueda blend from Spain is clearly an exception to the rule that whites don't need to breathe. Upon first opening it I found it to have a somewhat sweetish, rather unpleasant taste. This soon went away, however and what was left was a quite pleasant wine, tasting mostly of ripe peach, with elements of mown grass. $9.99.

Valentin Bianchi Sauvignon Blanc 2010

2012-01-08T08:33:00.000-08:00

It was bound to happen: a wine from Argentina's Mendoza Valley which both of us just plain didn't like. Anyway, this entirely lacks the crisp, steely character typical of the grape; instead it has a sweetish, on the borderline of off, taste. For whatever reason there are huge fluctuations in the price of this wine, PA is about average at $9.99.

Halala Afrika Chenin Blanc 2009

2012-01-06T06:17:00.000-08:00

There's nothing particularly remarkable about this South African white, it's a pleasant enough, light bodied quaff with subdued flanors of peach and apple. It does contain 14.5 % alcohol, so is best drunk with food. $7.99.

Found Stone Pinot Grigio 2010

2012-01-04T15:36:00.000-08:00

This young Australian white from a major combine is light, with predominant citrus elements. Reasonably pleasant but unremarkable. $7.99.

Val Berger Fitou 2009

2012-01-04T08:07:00.000-08:00

Although this Languedoc red announces itself as a Syrah/Grenache blend, by French law all Fitous must incorporate a certain percentage of the Carignac grape which, while extremely productive, tends to make an inferior wine. Perhaps this is the reason that, even after more than an hour's breathing, this wine still had a rather bitter aftertaste. Perhaps it would have been alright after two hours. $8.99.

Silver Point Sauvignon Blanc 2010

2012-01-03T06:34:00.000-08:00

This white is a blend of grapes from various vineyards, some in the Marlborough Valley, some outside of it, The result is fairly typical for a New Zealand wine, with elements of peach, citrus and the trademark newly mown grass. Decently priced at $9.99.

Patient Cottat Le Grand Caillou Sauvignon Blanc 2009

2012-01-02T06:08:00.000-08:00

This Sancerre reminded us of a New Zealand. It's fresh, crisp, oaky with peach and melon tones as well as a strong hint of new mown grass. A particularly good choice for summer. $9.99.

Quinta de Casal Branco 2008

2012-01-01T13:24:00.000-08:00

There are two raps on this Portuguese red: One, it's badly overpriced at $8.99, being available for two and even three dollars less in N.Y. & N.J.; and two, unless you let it breathe for at least an hour it comes across with a burnt caramel taste. After that, it;s quite drinkable, with elements of red berry and chocolate.

McWilliams Chardonnay 2009

2011-12-28T15:35:00.000-08:00

Stateside lovers of Chardonnay, in my experience mostly of the female persuasion, will like this Australian white. It's fruity, mostly melon and apple, not precisely sweet, but certainly mellow and buttery, with a slight tinge of citrus for balance. Affordable at $6.99.

Little Yering Pinot Noir 2008

2011-12-28T06:26:00.001-08:00

The entry level wine from this well known Australian winery, this red is extremely light in body. It reminded me of what one typically is served in the South Tyrol. It has a pleasant mix of red berry flavors with a slight citrus finish. A good summer wine to go with a light meal taken al fresco. Attractively priced at $7.99.

Symington Altano Douro 2009

2011-12-23T07:26:00.000-08:00

This Portuguese red from the Douro Valley has a nice mix of red berries and chocolate notes, with an agreeable, slightly peppery finish. A nice wine, but well overpriced at $9.99, being available for three dollars less in N.J.

Charte d'Assemblage 2010

2011-12-22T05:12:00.000-08:00

First of all, this young Languedoc red, a Grenache/Syrah blend, has to breathe for at least two hours, preferably decanted, else it will have an unpleasantly bitter aftertaste. Once this dissipates, what you have is a robust country wine with plum and cherry notes and quite a lot of spice. $7.99.

Quinta de Casal Branco 2008

2011-12-18T15:21:00.000-08:00

This Portuguese red blend is made on an estate which is best known for breeding the famous Lusitanian horses, for whatever that's worth. It has a somewhat aggressive onset, reminiscent of licorice and oak but then morphs into a nice, smooth finish. $8.99, but sells for as much as three dollars less, on sale, in N.J. If you can get it for that, it's a real bargain.

Stanza Gewurztraminer 2008

2011-12-17T15:26:00.000-08:00

"Gewurz" in German means spice and this grape, with elements of lychee nut and nutmeg, was probably developed in the South Tyrol some thousand years ago. It has most prominently been identified with Alsace. This California exemplar has a pleasant, somewhat subdued spicyness and stops well short of being sweet, the curse of many Gewurtztraminers made in this country. At the sale price of $5.99 it's well worth buying.

Patient Cotta Le Grand Caillou Sauvignon Blanc 2009

2011-12-16T15:32:00.000-08:00

Here we have a Loire which in every way calls to mind a Sancerre but, as it's merely country varietal, sells at half the price. It opens up with a pear note, almost sweet, but not quite, and soon balanced by citrus. A crisp, clean wine, and a real bargain at $9.99.

Pillar Box Red 2008

2011-12-15T16:15:00.000-08:00

Some reviewers have described this Shiraz blend as an Australian fruit bomb. I'd say it's, at best, a firecracker. Some blackberry and cherry elements come through but the overall impression is ho-hum. At least it's not expensive: $6.99.

Statum Sauvignon Blanc 2011

2011-12-13T06:34:00.000-08:00

This young New Zealand white from the Marlborough district is somewhat atypical. Missing is the freshly mown grass element that so many of these wines exhibit. What you get is gooseberry along with some citrus. A nice, if not memorable, wine and reasonably priced at $8.49.

Stratum Sauvignon Blanc

2011-12-12T16:12:00.000-08:00

This non-vintage New Zealand white from the Marlborough Valley has some of the charechteristics of the wines of the region but lacks the typical mown grass elements. It's pleasant enough but not particularly distinguished. $8.49.

Nederburg Chenin Blanc 2011

2011-12-12T07:34:00.000-08:00

While the previously reviewed white blend from this South African producer is very citrous in flavor, this Chenin Blanc is at the least semi sweet, with apricot and peach elements. Those of you who are into California Chardonnays might like it. $6.99.

Ramon Bilbao Crianza 2006

2011-12-10T06:33:00.000-08:00

Aged for almost two years, in American oak and in the bottle, this Spanish red from the Rioja is 100% Tempranillo. It exhibits a nice blend of cherry and dark berry flavors, with an element of smokiness and a touch of licorice at the prolonged, even finish. Altogether, a nice wine which seems to sell for a wide gamut of prices, with the PA price of $9.99 toward the low end.

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010

2011-12-09T05:52:00.000-08:00

This New Zealand white which I reviewed very favorably three years ago has now been reduced to $9.99. At that price it's a real bargain. Buy it, it won't last.

Loios Alentejano 2010

2011-12-08T05:47:00.000-08:00

The Alentejo in Eastern Portugal is best known for its reds. This young white has a dominating citrus element with a note of cut grass vaguely reminiscent of a New Zealand, although not as pronounced. Fairly complex for its age and price. $7.99.

Berro Piemonte Barbera 2010

2011-12-06T08:43:00.000-08:00

This Italian red is made from a grape originating in the Piedmont. It's very smooth drinking, with red cherry and raspberry overtones and an even finish. $9.99.

Wines in Spain & on the North Atlantic

2011-12-05T09:40:00.001-08:00

We're just back from a week in Spain and an adjoining Transatlantic Cruise. During this time we drank sixteen wines not previously reviewed here. Only one is available in PA. I don't know whether this speaks to our tastes or to PSLB's purchasing policy. Judging from the price we paid for them in our hotels and aboard ship (given a markup of 2.5 to 3.5 X over what one would have to pay in the stores) all but two of them should be available, if they are indeed imported into the country, at under $10. All of them proved acceptable, quite a few of them were actually quite good. In case some of you find them in other states, I append a list.

Marques de Riscal Verdejo 2010. Spanish white.
David Moreno Non Vintage. Rioja white.
Don Suero Prieto Crianza 2009. Spanish red.
Vinha Herminia Reserva 2005. Rioja red. PA price $21.99.
Sanz Classico Rueda 2010. Spanish red.
Fernandez de Pierola 2010. Rioja white.
Concorrales Tempranillo 2010. Spanish red.
Elsa Bianchi Malbec 2010. Argentinian red.
Ponzi Pinot Noir 2009. Oregon red. An expensive wine. Available in N.Y. for $21.
Marques de Concordia Tempranillo Crianza 2007. Rioja red.
Joseph Drouhin Macon Villages 2009. Burgundian red.
Zeta Priorat 2008. Spanish red.
Jean Luc Colombo Viognier 2010. French white.
Heron's Nest Cabernet Sauvignon/Pinotage 2008. South African red.
Heroes Sauvignon Blanc 2010. Chilean white.

Gougenheim Syrah 2009

2011-11-11T15:13:00.000-08:00

This Argentine red comes up to the standard set by the vineyard's other wines. It's a nice blend of dark cherry and plum, with a hint of chocolate and a certain smokyness in the finish. A nice buy at $7.99.

Gougenheim Malbec Reserve 2009

2011-11-10T04:52:00.000-08:00

This red is the upgraded version of the wine previously reviewed here and it's very nice indeed. It exhibits a beautifully smooth and integrated blend of plum and black berry flavors, with the typical Argentinian Malbec chocolate element and just enough of a tannin element at the finish to make it interesting. Highly recommended. $10.99, but you can get it for a dollar-and-a-half less in N.J.

Alandra Red

2011-11-06T15:46:00.000-08:00

This non vintage Portuguese red from the extreme south of the country is a blend of three local varietals. It's pretty much fruit up front, with a vaguely acerbic finnish. Not bad, but at $8.99 it's quintessentially overpriced, being available at three dollars less throughout N.J. Quite frankly, I'm tired of hearing from defenders of the PA system who maintain that my bias is unreaonable. Can't you people add?

Calcu Malbec 2008

2011-11-05T13:41:00.000-07:00

This Chilean red is lighter than one would expect of a Malbec, it is in fact on the verge of being insubstantial. If you insist that your wines take a back seat to your food, it may do for you. $7.99.

Chain of Fire Shiraz 2008

2011-10-31T16:52:00.000-07:00

This Australian red is anything but the typical fruit bomb. Rather, it's restrained in character, with dark berry elements tempered by not inconsiderable acidity. A nice wine, favorably priced at $7.99 with manufacturer's coupon.

Nieto Senetiner Pinot Noir 2010

2011-10-30T07:02:00.000-07:00

I found this Argentine red disappointing. While the Malbec from this winery generally gets high marks, this Pinot Noir is immature and diffident to the point of disappearing from the palate. It's not in any way unpleasant, it just doesn't have much to say for itself. $9.99.

Conte Brandolini d'Adda Treanni

2011-10-25T06:12:00.000-07:00

This Italian red from the Friuli is a blend of three vintages as well as of three varietals. It has a youthful vigor without being brash, tastes mostly of red berries and has a nice, tangy finish. Well priced at $9.99.

Bodega Elena Red Blend 2010

2011-10-18T06:17:00.000-07:00

Here's something for the feminists: a wine by a female wine maker. A blend of Malbec, Syrah and Bonardo, this wine from Argentina's Mendoza district is a nice, restrained mixture of black cherry and blackberry elements, with enough of a bite at the finish to make it interesting. Nicely priced at $6.99.

Plumia Muscat 2009

2011-10-12T06:47:00.000-07:00

When one thinks of Muscat/Muscatel a sweet white desert wine comes to mind. This one from Aragon however stops well short of being sweet. It's a somewhat assertive mix of pear and bitter orange with a fair amount of pungency. I'd say it would go best with a strong cheese. $8.99.

Ciconia 2010

2011-10-10T16:57:00.000-07:00

This young Portuguese red blend is a pleasing blend of cherry and red berry flavors with a touch of chocolate and oak at the finish. $7.99, available for a dollar less throughout N.Y. and N.J. Ciconia means stork in Portuguese, so you ladies be aware!

Joseph Drouhin Laforet 2009

2011-10-03T16:12:00.001-07:00

Whwn I reviewed this bottle I complained that it was excessively fruity. Well, this time around the overwhelming impression was one of pure citrus, to the point of being bitter. My advice is that, if a wine is that inconsistent, don't buy it.

Gonnet Ventoux 2010

2011-10-01T09:37:00.000-07:00

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, this young Cote du Rhone red is somewhat on the austere side. It lacks the fullbodyness of a typical CDR and is fruit forward, with a pepper finish and very drinkable. $9,99, a fair price for this bottle.

Hotel de France Ferney-Voltaire; Hotel Taillard Goumois

2011-09-29T07:03:00.000-07:00

In his old age Voltaire lived in the little village of Ferney, five miles from Geneva, so that if, as had often happened before, he got in trouble with the censorship, he would be able to make a quick escape into Switzerland. Today the modern, functional Hotel de France can be made to serve a somewhat different purpose: If one has business to transact in Geneva but is unwilling to pay the really astronomical prices that decent hotels in that city demand, this is an acceptable alternative. A double will cost you about $125 and you can be either in the city center or at the airport in less than ten minutes. But one caveat, unless you've rented a car on the Swiss side of the Geneva airport you'll be subjected to the scam that the Swiss have in place with their thruway stickers.

Goumois is a little village in the midst of a forest in the Jura, quite close to the Swiss border. The Hotel Taillard, owned for four generations by the same family, sits atop a plateau with a good view of the mountains. There's an outdoor pool and many hiking trails lead into the woods. While the rooms are rather small and the furnishings old fashioned the cuisine is a very good example of the French classical style. Half pension runs about 110 per person per day. This is a good place to unwind or a weekend if one has been working hard all week either in Switzerland or in Southwestern Germany; I used to come here from Konstanz and really enjoyed the change of pace and the food.

Le Clos des Cimes St Bonnet le Froid

2011-09-26T06:40:00.000-07:00

As the name of the village indicates one is in the mountain here, although actually in the sub Alps. The scenery is pleasant if not spectacular, there are good views of distant peaks. The hotel, a somewhat bleak tructure, sits on an isolated, wind blown plateau. The rooms are good sized, the furniture modern, functional, but not particularly esthetic. There's a small restaurant, Le Bistrot, that serves good regional fare with a prix fixe at $35. The price of a double is $260 for the night which, as more than one traveller has observed, is out of keeping with what you get. So why come here at all? Well, as always in France, the answer to that question is the food. There is a second restaurant attached to the hotel, Regis et Jacques Marcon, and it has three Michelin stars. The chef/proprietor is a renowned mushroom and wild herb connoisseur and, in the spring and fall conjures up marvelous mushroom dishes. One of his most arresting inventions is a cassoulet made with lobster and lentils, not a combination one would readily come up with, but truly great tasting. Needless to say, the prices are well up in the stratosphere, three Michelin stars in France constitute a license to charge as if there were no tomorrow. The cheapest prix fixe is $160 and one ccan easily run up a tab twice that amount. (When I stayed here it was at the invitation of the BBC, for whom I was the featured lecturer in a series about the history of mountain vacationing, so I ate on their nickel). If you're determined to have the gastronomic experience at all costs but don't care to have your pocket picked for an overnight stay, you can also stay at the nearby Le Fort du Pre, a comfortable country hotel with an indoor pool and fitness center for $100 for a double. But, either way, you'll have to reserve a table at Regis et Jacques months ahead of time, the French will line up to pay this kind of money for a meal.

*Adegas Pegoes 2008

2011-09-26T06:12:00.000-07:00

Available online only, this Portuguese red is on the reserved side, exhibiting rather subdued red cherry elements. The finish, according to the winery's website, is meant to be chocolate, but in fact it's merely slightly acerbic. Thecloseout price is $7.99.

Maipe Bonarda 2009

2011-09-23T15:15:00.000-07:00

Yet another red from Argentina's Mendoza district, this has very soft tannins and somewhat suppressed plum and red berry flavors, with a just slightly acidic finish. While it would be an exaggeration to call it a distinguished wine, it's nevertheless very pleasaznt. A good buy at the sale price of $9.99.

Durigutti Bonarda 2008

2011-09-23T06:46:00.000-07:00

The Bonarda grape is an Italian import to Argentina, for the most part it's used to make simple country wines, but this one has greater aspirations. I once wrote that I'd never met an Argentinian red from the Mendoza region that I did'nt like and that's still the case, although my CDC had some problems with this one. Other reviewers have described it as an interesting blend of old and new world elements; for her, and to some degree for me, the former were predominant. Much more of the tartness came through than the fruity elements. This was ok with our beef ribs, but it would probably have overwhelmed a lighter meal. $9.99.

Auberge des Montagnes Pailherols

2011-09-22T06:25:00.000-07:00

The southern Auvergne is our very favorite part of France for an extended stay. Pailherols is a tiny hamlet perched atop a high plateau, the first time you drive up the winding road from Vic sur Cere down in the valley you think you'll never get there. What eventually greets you is a pretty house somewhat resembling a chalet. This is where you check in, but make sure that you've reserved your room in Les Glycines, which is their newly built annex another hundred yards down the road. Built to resemble a minicastle complete with small turrets, this overlooks a small lake with ducks and swans swimming in it. While the rooms in the main building are rather small and unpretentious, the rooms here are vast, with French doors opening upon a balcony that overlooks the lake. There is a breakfast room on the lowest level where an ample breakfast buffet is served. The evening meal is taken either in the main floor dining room or in the main house. The cuisine is Auvergnat, which translates into hearty dishes and generous portions. If someday you can get yourself to skip lunch you might try the degustation menu in the evening. This starts out with a slice of foie gras, then a whole salmoned trout, weighing at the very least three pounds, is brought to your table which Madame herself disects for you. Then only comes the main meat dish and you choose your dessert from the traditional French charriot des desserts. After that, of course, there is a cheese tray with a huge assortment of local cheeses. (General De Gaulle once observed that acountry that produced over four hundred different varieties of cheese was inherently impossible to govern and he was probably right). But if you take my advice you'll go easy on the delicious tasting, looking and smelling Auvergnat mashed potato and cheese mixture that accompanies the main meal, this will sit in your stomach like a canon ball. The place is idyllic, there are several different walks you can take that lead upward through meadows with lowing Charolais cattle to hilltops with extended views. There's both an outdoor and an indoor pool and even a small climbing wall for the kiddies. In winter the area affords excelent cross country skiing trails. At some ten minute's drive there is a castle that Louis XIV built for one of his mistresses which is nowadays part of a working farm andcan be visited. Tastes of course differ, but for both of us this region of high, isolated mountain plateaus represents the absolutely ideal setting for complete and unconditional relaxation. We spent a very happy week here.

Torres Malena Garnacha 2010

2011-09-21T06:23:00.000-07:00

A fairly uncomplicated wine, this Catalan red from the huge Torres combine, provided you give it at least an hour to breathe, provides a nice cherry element with jus enough background acidity to make it interesting. $7.99.

Hotel Les 7 Molles Sauveterre de Comminges; Hotel Les 3 Lys Condom France

2011-09-19T06:52:00.000-07:00

Hotlel Les 7 Molles Sauveterre de Comminges. A molle is a millstone, and there are seven old ones distributed around the extensive grounds of this largish country inn. It's located in the central Pyrenees, surrounded by a park which has been hewn out of the forest. There are wonderful walks in along the river valley that adjoins the hotel and an ample outdoor pool. The rooms are large and prettily decorated, there's a really superior display of old hand painted regional pottery in the dining room. The restaurant, while very good, is not what it was years ago when it aspired to greatness, it now serves a traditional and not very inspired regional cuisine. You may decide to take your meals elsewhere. What this is, is a pleasant place to stay if you have an interest in visiting nearby Lourdes and want to avoid the hustle and bustle that staying in the shrine town involves. A double is approximately $150 for the night.

Hotel Les 3 Lys Condom France. The name is perhaps unfortunate but Condom is a very pretty medieval town with mostly stone houses close to the extremely picturesque gorges of the river Tarn. The hotel is a restored eighteenth century mansion with large bedrooms that have genuine antique furniture. There, a pleasant garden with a large outdoor pool and the hotel is extremely quiet at night. Here too a rooom will set you back about $15o for the night. The restaurant is somewhat overpriced and not particularly distinguished but there is a really excellent restaurant in town, La Table des Cordeliers. This is housed in a thirteenth century convent chapel and has a Michelin star. On weekdays it serves what must be close to the cheapest three course Michelin one star prix fixe in France for $31. (A note: when travelling in France it is acceptable to not take one's evening meal in a hotel with a restaurant when staying for one night, but with a longer stay this will likely provoke a very frosty response.)

Stemmari Nero D'Avola 2009

2011-09-17T15:56:00.000-07:00

The expression that first comes to my mind when Sicilian reds are mentioned is " Brutta figura", they tend to be harsh, over the top and assertive. This is not the case with this one. To be sure, it's anything but dry, expressing, wihout quite walloving in, red berry fruity flavors, but on balance it's quite restrained and civilized. Not bad, but even at the sale price of $7.99, it's overpriced, being available in neighboring states for two dollars less.

Guardian Peak Frontier 2008

2011-09-17T06:45:00.000-07:00

A blend of half Cabernet Sauvignon, the other half Shiraz and Merlot, this South African red is pleasant on the tongue with elements of plum and cherry and a peppery finish. A very good buy at the sale price of $7.99.

Toad Hollow Risque Vin Vivant

2011-09-14T16:00:00.000-07:00

A vin vivant falls about midway between a genuine sparkling wine such as Champagne and a just barely effervescent one such as Vinho Verde. It's made from young grapes, continues to ferment in the bottle and is always just slightly sweet. This French white from the Limousin is very light (just 6% alcohol) and goes reasonably well with light dishes such as pasta. One advantage it has is that it comes with a bottle which, while it has the usual Champaign cork, also has a European reclosable beer bottle top attached to it, so that it can be recycled to contain soda water or beer at picnics. $8.99.

Octave Vinho Verde

2011-09-13T06:37:00.000-07:00

This non vintage Portuguese white, made from immature grapes in the north of the country, is light, refreshing on a hot day, tastes of lemon and lime and is slightly effervescent. Attractively priced at $6.99.

Parador Monforte; Parador Verin; Parador Baiona Spain

2011-09-12T06:24:00.000-07:00

Today I shall describe three very different paradors in the Galician countryside. The parador of Monforte sits atop the highest point of a small provincial town. It occupies two adjoining buildings, a monastery and a bishop's palace, both seventeenth century neoclassical structures. The prevailing atmosphere accords with the monastic origins of the place, bare stone blocks in the public rooms make for a feeling of austerity, almost crossing the line into the severe. For those seeking a lighter touch, there's an outdoor pool. The nearby cathedral city of Ourense is well worth a visit.

The parador of Verin, a newbuild in the style of a Galician country mansion, is located on a hilltop, facing an ancient castle which formerly guarded the frontier with Portugal. The rooms are comfortable, the views pleasant, there's an outdoor pool. For those afflicted with arthritis the town offers a spa whose waters promise relief. There is another, quite unexpected plus. A ways below the parador there is what at first glance appears to be a huge junkyard but is in effect an antique store with some of the best pieces of genuine old (sixteenth and seventeenth century) Spanish pottery I've seen anywhere interspersed among the dross. Another advantage of the parador is the price. In the off season you can get a double for sixty euros ($85) for the night.

The parador of Baiona, a newbuild, has a spectacular location atop a narrow peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic. The views of the long, indented shoreline are unsurpassable. There is a nice outdoor pool. Baiona is where the caravel Pinta made its landfall in 1493 to make the first report of the discovery of the new world. The parador's dining room serves a large assortment of fish and shellfish dishes purchased that day from the fishermen in the port. Baiona is a good place from which to visit Santiago if one doesn't want to incur the expense of a stay in the Reyes Catolicos.

Chateau du Bousquet Cotes de Bourg 2006

2011-09-04T07:01:00.000-07:00

The Cotes de Bourg are in the northern part of the Bordeaux region, across the estuary from the better known Medoc. The wines from there have a reputation of having more of an up front fruit flavor than the more austere Medocs, but that's not the case with this red. If you allow it to breathe for at least an hour it delivers a nicely subdued element of plum and blackberry, with soft tannins and a hint of pepper at the finish. A very nice wine, but I suspect that it has reached its peak, so drink it now. A good buy at $10.99.

Montinore Esttate Pinot Gris 2009

2011-09-03T06:47:00.000-07:00

My CDC felt that this Oregon white, although quite pleasant, lacked the crispness that characterizes this grape. This is true, but I quite liked the fullness of the wine, in which ripe pear and a touch of apple predominate. A nice buy at $8.99. Incidentally, as a general proposition, I notice that the PSLB now intersperses its offerings with a few real bargains, which change from month to month. It's just a question of identifying them, as their ad campaigns in general feature their overpriced items.

Maculan Pino & Toi 2010

2011-08-31T16:08:00.000-07:00

This young North Italian white from the foothills of the Alps is 60% Tocai, 25% Pinot Blanco and 15% Pinot Grigio. The Tokay grape in Hungary is used to make a famously sweet dessert wine, but there's not even a trace of sweetness here. The prevailing taste element is citrus so much so that it just barely stops short of the actually sour. $8.99.

Alto Las Tacas Malbec 2009

2011-08-31T06:35:00.000-07:00

We found this Argentine red from Mendoza to be quite pleasant. It features a well integrated mix of red cherry and plum; instead of the more usual chocolate/caramel element that distinguishes many Argentinian Malbecs there' a peppery note at the finish. $9.49.

Maso Canali Pinot Grigio 2009

2011-08-29T07:12:00.000-07:00

The product of a small vineyard in Italy's Lake District, this white is pale in color and more fruity than the Pinot Grigios from the Veneto tend to be. I detected nectarine and citrus chiefly. My CDC liked it, I found it a little disappointing, even at the sale price of $11.99.

A-Mano Pinot Grigio 2010

2011-08-26T08:54:00.000-07:00

This very young, very light Italian has more than a touch of minerality, is just below the line of effervescence, has rather subdued white fruit flavors and considerable acidity. Definitely not a sipping wine, it did well with our curry though. $6,99,

La Vendimia 2009

2011-08-24T16:27:00.000-07:00

This Rioja red is half tempranillo, half grenache, with the latter varietal dominant in its taste, which is a mix of red cherry and plum and an element of mellow spice, in the direction of roasted almonds. It has good legs. A very pleasant wine and attractively priced at $8.99.

Chateau la Rose du Pin Entre Deux Mers 2005

2011-08-22T16:28:00.000-07:00

We found this white Bordeaux to be rather disappointing, it's clearly past its prime. Instead of the crisp, well defined fruitiness, with a predominance of melon, that is characteristic of a good Entre Deux Mers there's only a predominant element of citrus, not entirely pleasing. Even at $8.49, no great bargain.

Santa Rita Carmenere Reserva 2008

2011-08-19T05:46:00.000-07:00

The Carmenere grape, once a staple of Bordeaux reds, was completely wiped out there by the mid nineteenth century philoxera infestation. Fortunately some vines had been transplanted to Chile where they flourished. This Rapel Valley wine has a pleasing mix of red fruit flavors tempered by oak and soft tannins, with a hint of caramel in the finish. While Chile is best known for producing huge quantities of plonk, this definitely does not fall into that category and, at the closeout price of $6.99, is a very good buy indeed.

Santa Rita Carmenera Reserva 2008

2011-08-18T16:23:00.000-07:00

The Carmenere grape was one of the Bordeaux staples until the philoxera epidemic of the mid nineteenth century wiped it out. Fortunately it had been translated to Chile which, for unknown reasons, escaped the infestation. It has since become a signature red of that country. This wine is robust, with notes of plum and red berries and soft tannins at the finish, with a pleasing element of spice. At the closeout price of $6.99 it's a most attractive bargain.

Red Bicyclette Pinot Noir 2009

2011-08-17T09:45:00.000-07:00

The gigantic Gallo combine is the exclusive U.S. importer of this label. Last year several of its French suppliers in Provence were convicted of adulterating the Pinot Noir with cheaper grapes and slapped with suspended jail terms and substantial fines. Gallo admitted this to be the case with the stipulation that they had been unaware of the practice but did not recall the affected vintages ('06 through '08). None of this did much for the reputation of Provence wines in this country, but I suppose that Gallo is too big to care. I did not try these vintages, having read that they were pretty awful at any price. The '09 is presumably pure Pinot Noir, so I thought I'd give it a try. I'm glad I did. It's a very pleasant country red, with nicely blended red fruit flavors and soft tannins at the finnish. And, presumably because either Gallo or the PSLB, or both, are trying to exercize dammage control it's being offered at a very attractive $6.99.

Les Fosses d'Hareng Vouvray 2008

2011-08-17T06:21:00.000-07:00

This is a Chenin Blanc from the region of Tours in the Loire Valley where the grape originated. Loire Chenin Blancs are distributed over a wide spectrum, some exhibiting the austere acidity with which one is familiar over here, others tasting almost like a Chardonnay. This one clearly falls into the second category, having very ripe peach and melon flavors. It's slightly sweet, but with the sweetness of ripe fruit, not sugar. $11.99.

Principato Pinot Grigio Rose 2010

2011-08-14T15:19:00.000-07:00

This rose from the Veneto in Italy doesn't exhibit the dryness, nor the flintiness of a good white Pinot Grigio, but it doesn't cross the line into sweetness either. It has some nice white fruit flavors with just a hint of citrus in the aftertaste. It makes a good choice for entertaining large numbers at a summertime picnic at the closeout price of $6.99 for the 1.5 liter bottle, which won't break the bank.

Hess Select Sauvignon Blanc 2009

2011-08-13T11:33:00.000-07:00

We differed on this Northern California white. My C.D.C. ratherliked it, I felt that the grapefruit plus other citrus notes were so pronounced that they overpowered the wine. If that doesn't put you off, then, at the closeout price of 6.99, this is a bargain.

Castillo de Molina Pinot Noir Reserva 2009

2011-08-11T17:36:00.000-07:00

The Pinot Noir Grape is what goes into the great majority of Burgundian reds, so it's no great wonder that this Chilean wine puts one in mind of a village Burgundy. It tastes of red berries and oak, with fairly strong tannins in the finish. A pretty good buy at $6.99.

Guardian Peak Frontier 2007

2011-08-11T06:02:00.000-07:00

We both very much liked this South African red, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot blend. It has nicely balanced plum, raspberry and red cherry flavors, with a pleasing caramel and oak finish. Well priced at $7.99.

Rosemount Traminer/Riesling 2010

2011-08-10T05:54:00.000-07:00

I generally stay away from Rieslings, they're far too sweet for us, but this New South Wales white is 71% Traminer so I decided to give it a shot. The nose is definitely flowery, the mouth is ripe fruit with just enough spice to keep it from being over the line. If you don't insist on a very dry white you'll probably like this at the sale price of $6.99.

Luna di Luna Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio 2009

2011-08-08T16:40:00.000-07:00

This Italian white from the Veneto does not constitute a happy marriage. It has neither the rich, fruity character of a Chardonnay, nor the flintiness of a Pinot Grigio. In the end, it tastes of very little at all, with, to add insult to injury, an acerbic finish. Even at the sale price of $6.99, no bargain.

B&G Chardonnay Reserve 2009

2011-08-07T17:12:00.000-07:00

If you're looking for an emminently affordable summer picnic wine and you're into Chardonnays, this may be your thing. Barton & Guestier is a quintessential mass producer, so don't look for subtlety here, what you get is a smooth, peach dominated flavor, perhaps a bit on the sweet side. The close out price of $9.99 for the 1.5 liter bottle certainly is attractive.

Two Oceans Shiraz 2010

2011-08-07T16:57:00.000-07:00

Forewarned by an on line review, I chilled this South African red and then let it breathe for an hour. This eliminated the unpleasant aftertaste the review alluded to and gave us a wine that, while entirely unremarkable, is a not unpleasant blend of strawberry and slightly smoky flavors.It will do as a vin ordinaire, and the clearance price of $4.99 is certainly no obstacle.

Santa Florentina Merlot 2008

2011-08-06T15:52:00.000-07:00

For someone like me who isn't a fan of Merlots, this red from Argentina is an agreeable surprise. Allowed to breathe for an hour or so, it delivers a reasonably pleasant blend of dark fruit flavors, with some acidity, but none of the unpleasant aftertaste I associate with the variety. Moreover, it's a fantastic bargain at the closeout price of $3.99. These days that will barely get you a bottle of vile plonk. Get it!

Luna di Luna Merlot/Cabernet 2009

2011-08-05T17:45:00.000-07:00

There's something about me that objects to pouring wine from brightly colored, enameled bottles, so that I would have chosen to decant this, but my CDC said she thought the bottle was cute, so there you are. Anyway, this Italian blend from the Veneto, 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet, took me by surprise. Allowed to breathe for an hour, it produced an eminently civilized mixture of dark fruit flavors, with not even a hint of the archtypical unpleasant Merlot aftertaste. At the closeout price of $5.99 it's a steal.

Sogrape Callabriga Alentejo 2008

2011-08-02T06:00:00.000-07:00

A red blend from Portugal's largest producer, aged in oak for a year and in the bottle for another six months, this is a very nice wine indeed. It exhibits well rounded dark fruit flavors, soft tannins and caramel underpinning. Very favorably priced at $8.99.

Sella e Mosca Terre Rare Riserva 2005

2011-07-27T16:11:00.000-07:00

The Carignano grape is generally consigned to a back up role as an addition to better known varietals, but on Italy's island of Sardinia, where long, hot summers are the rule, accompanied by sea winds, it's a player in its own right. What we have here is a wine that is aged in oak for a year, then for an additional year in the bottle. The flavors are dark berry with plum and medium tannins, the finish is mildly acidic. A very good value at the sale price of $7.99.

Paisaje de Tupungato 2007

2011-07-27T05:45:00.000-07:00

This red from Argentina's Mendoza District is the flagship wine of the well known Finca Flichman. A blend of 70 % Malbec, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot, it's aged in oak for a full year and has a high alcohol content of 14.5%, which is reflected in the nose. It exhibits a nice balance of dark fruit flavors with a good deal of oak and soft tannins, with a finish that is partly spice and partly typical Malbec chocolate. According to the winery this wine is made only in very good years. A superior quaff and, moreover, at an attractive sale price of $11.99.

Sasso Pinot Grigio 2009

2011-07-22T15:45:00.000-07:00

My CDC's characterization of this white from the Veneto was "bubbly water with alcohol". While I don't think it's quite that bad, I have to admit that it lacks both the forward fruitiness and the bite of a good Pinot Grigio. Moreover, our friends at the P.L.C.B. assure us that the price of $8.99 is a real bargain, it's being quoted at ten dollars more elsewhere. Where? In Hong Kong? In Geneva? In this country it's available for two, and even three dollars less. How long until we vote them out once and for all?

Trapiche Oak cask Pinot Noir 2009

2011-07-21T16:07:00.000-07:00

This red from one of Argentina's largest producers is one step above their entry level. However, unlike the similar Malbec previously reviewed here, it is not particularly successful, being too heavily oaked and leaving one with a somewhat bitter aftertaste. $8.99.

Mirassou Chardonnay 2009

2011-07-21T15:56:00.000-07:00

It would appear that this is our week for CA wines. This central coast Chardonnay is all peach and apricot, stopping just short of being actually sweet. My CDC thought it was fine, I didn't much like it. It is, however, at $12.99, insanely overpriced, being available for five or six dollars less (!) almost anywhere. How long until we vote these people out?

Clos Lachance Zinfandel 2007

2011-07-20T05:29:00.000-07:00

I decided the time had come to give CA reds another chance, and what wine better to do it with than something called Lachance? In the event, we differed on this one. My CDC rather liked it's pronounced licorice/annisse element. I thought that it was too assertive, masking the blackberry/cherry flavors that were trying to get through. $8.99.

Collepino Merlot/SanGiovese 2008

2011-07-17T16:12:00.000-07:00

The giant Banfi combine produces mostly plonk, but also some wines that aspire to something more. This Super Tuscan, although slightly rough, does have a nice blend of red berries and cherry along with a caramel finish. At the closeout price of $5.99 it's certainly worth getting.

A Mano Pinot Grigio 2010

2011-07-16T17:39:00.000-07:00

This young white from the Veneto is relatively light with a dominant citrus element and very little in the way of finish. An acceptable summer quaff, but not much beyond that. $6.99.

Bela Sera Pinot Grigio 2010

2011-07-16T16:25:00.000-07:00

Of the many Italian Pinot Grigios available here in magnum bottles for summer outdoor consumption we have decided we like this one best. It has a pleasing, rather full bodied peach element with a citrusy finish. If you can get it with the instant rebate coupon it's a steal at $8.99. Get it!

Chateau Tour de Rodet Graves 2009

2011-07-16T05:16:00.000-07:00

This red Bordeaux is 65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and largely exhibits the traits of the former. It is earthy, with blackberry and cassis elements and a definite note of caramel. Interesting, as one finds mostly whit Graves in this country, but rather pricey at $11.99.

La Tour Travers 2009

2011-07-14T05:47:00.000-07:00

This red Bordeaux bears the designation "Grand Vin de Bordeaux" which is a step up from an ordinary table wine. It's light, austere, with rich tannin dominating. A very nice wine. $9.99.

Graham Beck The Game Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2010

2011-07-10T13:56:00.000-07:00

The vineyard producing this South African white is next door to a game reserve and apparently the baboons cross over to steal the grapes once they're ripe, thus informing the owners where to begin harvesting. Be that as it may, this is a nicely rounded wine, with notes of tropical fruit, a distinctly lemony finish and just the merest hint of aeration. $9.99.

Lurton El Albar Verdejo 2009

2011-07-09T15:43:00.000-07:00

Typically, the Spanish Verdejo grape is grown in maritime climates and thus harvested late, so that it may attain a full ripeness. In very cold years this goes wrong, but mostly not. This product of the French Lurton combine is grown in Toro, in the province of Leon. It's fairly dark in color, has white fruit elements and a citrusy finish. $7.99.

Ninety Plus Sauvignon Blanc 2010

2011-07-09T05:58:00.000-07:00

Here we have an interesting concept. This company buys up surplus production from independent New Zealand vintners who can't or, for reasons of exclusivety, don't wish to sell it themselves, and resells it, at a lower price, under its own label. Thus you don't know what you're getting but chances are it's going to be good (90+ refers to the ratings of the originals). This wine, Lot2, is a typical Marlborough Valley, with ripe melon and citrus flavors and a hint of mown grass. $9.99, which seems a fair price.

Domaine Saint Martin Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2009

2011-07-02T16:10:00.000-07:00

This Loire white is made by a process called "sur lie", which means that the wine is left to age for some months on the detritus of the fermentation, which gives it a rounded, buttery element. The predominant elements are pear, green apple and citrus, with the merest hint of smokines. Nicely priced at $8.99.

Montinore Pinot gris Estate 2009

2011-07-01T08:33:00.000-07:00

Unlike my experience with CA wines, I have rarely been disappointed in an OR white, and this one is certainly no exception. While light, it's far from thin, has a predominantly pear, smooth, buttery quality, and a refreshing finish. An excellent buy at $8.99.

Colonia Las Liebres 2009

2011-06-28T04:52:00.000-07:00

A pleasing, robust country wine, this red from Argentina's Mendoza Valley is made from the originally Italian Bonarda grape. It's somewhat drier than the Malbecs but by no means unpleasantly so. It will complement any red meat dinner very well. Unfortunately, at $8.99, it sells for three-and-a-half dollars more than what you can get it for elsewhere. (Are you still with us, guv?)

Protocolo 2009

2011-06-27T05:04:00.000-07:00

This Castillian white from Cuenca, best known for its "cacas colgadas", houses that appear to be glued to the sides of a cliff, is a simple country wine, perfectly adequate for washing down a light summer meal, but without any outstanding characteristics. $7,99, available for two dollars less in neighboring states, which in that price range is a huge difference.

CDR 2008

2011-06-26T06:15:00.000-07:00

This regional white blend from the south of the Cotes du Rhone is a simplistic wine with no very pronounced qualities. Moreover it has a somewhat odd aftertaste. $8.49, which is too much.