The Frugal Oenologist: Mastroberardino Sannio Falanghina 2004

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Mastroberardino Sannio Falanghina 2004

This Italian white, from the leading house in Campania, the region of Naples, is at its very best when drunk young, and the present vintage is nearing the end of its life. Still, and surprisingly, it is by no means over the hill. It retains its lovely light straw colors and its lustrous bouquet of citrus and apple. It is long lasting on the tongue, and I have absolutely nothing to reproach it with. If you can find some in the closeout section at the present throwaway price of $6.99 by all means buy it and drink it while it retains its fine quality.

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Some Personal Notes...

I was born and grew up in Belgium. There, as in all of the francophone world, children, as soon as they were old enough to sit up at table to have their dinners (usually at midday) with the adults, were allowed a glass of wine. The thought behind this was that they should enter their turbulent teens already accustomed to alcohol and not treat it as yet another exciting discovery, to be abused with the ungovernable energy that the hormonal storms of those years produce. By and large, this premise was a sound one. The level of alcoholism in the French-speaking countries tends to be well below that of the Anglo-Saxon and Scandinavian ones, never mind the United States. To be sure, this datum can be challenged on a matter of definition: while there may be fewer binge drinkers who get raging drunk whenever they have access to alcohol, a goodly proportion of the working class, which habitually has a glass or two of wine with breakfast, is working on a mild buzz throughout the day. Still, the results are less deletirious: they function. At one point a Prime Minister of France, appropriately named Mendes-France, himself an anti alcohol crusader, launched an initiative to persuade the French to throw away their wine and drink milk instead. Needless to say, the project was still-born. The French consume as much wine as ever. The point I'm trying to make is that it seems to me that it is eminently possible to go through life enjoying one's wine without being seriously impaired in one's judgement or one's work level. In the old days in Europe one had the main meal of the day at noon, invariably following that up with a nap, so that when one returned to work one's mind was again clear. Nowadays dinner tends to be taken in the evenings, which means that one isn't really fit to do much serious work afterward, but I would argue, pace all you workoholics, that one's evenings should be devoted to less demanding and more congenial activities. I have enjoyed my evening wine throughout a long life, I've drunk some very good bottles and remember them fondly, and I would urge you to do the same.S

The Frugal Oenologist

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Mastroberardino Sannio Falanghina 2004

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